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In-Depth with Christina Pallmann
By RussianRiverTravel.com Writers John Haggard & David Defries

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Christina, a political science major from Berkeley, falls seamlessly upon her extensive knowledge obtained during her chemistry classes at Santa Rosa Junior College and Molecular Biology background form her Masters at Davis.

Enjoying an elegant wine such as Christina’s Fritz Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2004 is always a pleasure. But the experience is heightened when sharing it with the one who made it. Christina is equally expressive and detailed in her descriptions of each vintage and varietals she has produced since being at Fritz Vineyards.

THE ROAD TO FRITZ WINERY

It takes many life experiences to reach that plateau of certainty where genius is found.

In her twenties, Christina chose to go back to France, instead of Germany as her parents had wanted. Christina’s description of her life in Paris is “sublime”. She’d fallen in love, as is the custom, but for only a time.

“This Pinot is gorgeous, but the lasagna is so savory, let’s move on to the Zinfandel…”



Fritz Winery
24691 Dutcher Creek Rd.
Cloverdale, CA 95425
(707) 894-3389

The Tasting Room is open daily 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.


 

Having yet to drive the curves of Westside road from Healdsburg, we chose, reluctantly, to leave the rest of Christina’s Fritz Pinot Noir 2004 in the glass (a sumptuous mouthful of rich fruit) and move on to a taste of the 2004 Zinfandel, which, as suggested by the maker, would really work better with our spicy lasagna; and, indeed this spicy Zinfandel did just that.

Lasagna and Zinfandel takes us to Christina at twenty-eight. Throughout Christina’s international travels a consistent pleasure in her life had always been fine wine: from her brother marrying into the Latour family to her early twenties in Paris, it was now that she realized to make a career of her passion.

And so, back to France. Christina found herself at Chateaux Lascombes in Bordeaux, just slightly, by accident, fortunately, right next to Chateaux Margaux. Accommodations at l’Ascone were less than bare – her memories of rats chewing her mattress, dark walks to work through the cellar but not being allowed to work in the famous wine cellar did not dishearten her. Once she happened upon the “Tete” (the “town fool”) in the cellar sneaking a little taste direct from the barrels: she kept his secret, though not being allowed herself such a privilege.

But opportunities for advancement in France didn’t come so easily to the girl who spoke French with an American accent and had no direct family history in the French wine industry, and so, Christina came back to the San Francisco Bay Area in the late 80’s.

“After a short stint as the world’s worst waitress at the London Wine Bar in San Francisco’s Financial District, I worked for the Pacific Wine Company and came into contact with Bill Maher. Bill gave courses in German, Italian and French wines and was inspirational in helping me find my way in the US wine industry.”

Not wanting to hit a glass ceiling, Christina chose to go for a Masters at Davis and, at the same time, worked a vintage at Luna in Napa Valley, persuading them to allow her to do research for her thesis there. Only 50% graduated from the twelve in her class.

Post Graduation she returned to France, (to finally be allowed to work in the hallowed halls of a French Winery), to work for Michel Rolland at Ch. Le Bon Pasteur. Michel is a renowned international Wine consultant who is featured in the Indy documentary about winemakers “and the new wine scene”. His palate is known to be one of the best in the world, and, as Christina delicately suggests, “you play tennis with McEnroe, you improve your game, you taste wine with Michel Rolland…”

Christina further developed her palate in Burgundy with the world-renowned winemaker Jacques Seysses at Domaine Dujac and, then in New Zealand where she worked at Felton Road with Blair Walters. Why New Zealand? “Because I wanted to learn how they make such beautiful wines.” Christina spent a year traveling throughout the vinous regions of New Zealand and spent far more money than she earned gathering quite a collection of wine.

Christina and her New Zealand wine collection returned to the States in 2000 where, after a year working back at Luna in Napa Valley she moved on to Gallo as a research winemaker in 2001. In 2002, she was introduced to and hired by Merry Edwards to work for Fritz Winery.

“I can do the math. But deep down, though quite practical, I’m an artist. Merry taught me how to use chemistry as color. Though I love France, it’s constrained by tradition and rules, with little room for innovation. The French saw me as American, the Americans see me as European.”

“I suppose our Fritz Ruxton Chardonnay is a European Chardonnay: delicate, ethereal, smell it just once. Our Russian River Chardonnay has more volume and is showier, more American.”

And, Christina Pallmann produces both exquisitely: a child of the world, making wines of the world…


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Fritz Winery is located in Dry Creek California at 24691 Dutcher Creek Road, Cloverdale, CA. Telephone 707.894.3389. Tasting room open daily 10:30am to 4:30pm.

ABOUT THE WRITERS
John Haggard and David Defries are co-owners of Sophie’s Cellars, The Sonoma Wine and Cheese Market. Each Wednesday, when the store is closed, John tours wineries, vineyards, cellars, speaking to the people from grape-growers to winemakers who create the fine wines of Sonoma. Sophie’s Cellars presents one of the most extensive and unique collections of limited production Sonoma Wine. Buy wine online at www.sophiescellars.com or visit the boutique wine store at 20293 Hwy 116, Monte Rio, California, open each day 11am-7pm, closed on Wednesdays.


 
Beyond The Article
 

View Wineries By Appellation
View Wineries By Destination
Alexander Valley
Chalk Hill

Dry Creek Valley

Green Valley

Rockpile

Russian River Valley

Sonoma Coast

The appellations of northwest Sonoma County. Each with its own distinct growing conditions. It is said that if a grape grows anywhere in the world, there is a place in Sonoma County were it grows well.

Dry Creek Road
Healdsburg

Olivet Road

Westside Road


View wineries by destination. Learn about the area and read more on the winery websites.

This is also a great section to browse if you are visting the Russian River. Within the appellations listed to the left, these destinations have the perfect blend of wineries open to the public and great scenery.

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